You can love the look of a lightweight Hanfu set and still have a very practical question: what should you wear underneath it? A soft outer robe may be intentionally sheer, a skirt may need extra coverage in strong sunlight, and a high-waisted Ruqun sits differently from a modern dress. The answer depends on the garments you own, not on one universal rule.
This guide covers modern underlayer options for comfort, coverage and everyday wear. Some people build historically researched ensembles with specific traditional inner garments; others choose contemporary basics underneath a modern Hanfu-inspired outfit. Both approaches exist, but they serve different purposes.
Do you need a special inner layer for Hanfu?
Not every outfit requires one. Some sets already include an inner top, a skirt with sufficient coverage and a separate decorative outer layer. Others are made from translucent fabrics or use an open-front design that exposes a camisole or base garment. Start by identifying which pieces are included, then check the opacity of each layer.
For a modern event outfit, comfortable everyday undergarments are often enough if they remain discreet beneath the fabric. A slip, thin camisole or underskirt can add coverage when the outer material is light. These are practical modern wardrobe solutions, not claims about what people in one particular dynasty always wore.
What to wear under a sheer Hanfu robe
Keep the base layer smooth and simple
A plain, comfortable inner dress or camisole can work under a translucent robe, depending on how much of it is visible and how the robe fastens. Choose a color close to your skin tone or a shade that works with the outer fabric. White isn't necessarily the least visible option under white material, so check the outfit in daylight before an event.
Test the fabric in different lighting
Studio photos often make garments look more opaque than they feel in direct sun or under bright indoor lighting. Hold the fabric near a window and check it against the underlayers you expect to wear. If the skirt is thin, a simple slip or underskirt can reduce unwanted transparency. Make sure an extra layer does not add uncomfortable bulk at the waistband.
Underlayers for a Song-style Beizi set
Many modern Song-inspired outfits have a visible camisole-like inner garment, often called moxiong, with a long open outer layer called beizi. If the set already includes this camisole, you may not need another visible top. However, a personal base layer may still be useful for comfort, especially under a sheer outer robe.
Make sure shoulder straps or inner seams sit where you want them and that the outer garment hangs without tugging the fabric underneath. If your skirt is light, consider a simple underskirt that falls above the hem. Avoid a bulky waistband that would interrupt the line of the outer layer.
What goes under a Qixiong Ruqun?
A modern chest-high Qixiong Ruqun usually includes a separate upper garment and a high-positioned skirt. It is not always constructed like a one-piece dress. Start with underwear and the top you intend to wear, then secure the skirt according to its maker's directions. The neckline and fabric opacity determine whether you want an additional camisole.
Because the skirt band sits higher on the torso, be especially careful with extra layers at that position. A thick top or bulky seam may make the band less comfortable or change how it fastens. Try the whole outfit together rather than checking the top and skirt separately.
Our Qixiong Ruqun guide explains the difference between chest-high and waist-high arrangements, while the beginner's dressing guide covers getting the layers into the right order.
What to wear under a Mamianqun skirt
The horse-face skirt is a wraparound style with flat front and back panels and pleats along the sides. Choose everyday underwear or an additional slip according to the fabric's opacity and the coverage of its overlapping panels. An underskirt should be comfortable beneath the wrap and ideally shorter than the outer skirt.
If you're wearing a standing-collar blouse, check the neckline and sleeves of any inner shirt before adding the outer garment. A vest or Bijia sits on top of the outfit and is not a substitute for a properly fitted inner layer.
Warm-weather versus cool-weather layering
For warm days
Choose breathable-feeling layers and avoid unnecessary bulk. A long sleeve plus a skirt plus an outer robe can become warm quickly, even when the fabric looks airy. Check the fibre composition on the actual product page; visual appearance alone does not tell you how a fabric will feel in hot weather.
For cool days
A smooth, fitted base layer can add comfort under loose outer garments. Test how it looks around open cuffs, collars and hems. If you need a coat over the Hanfu, check that the sleeves can move without bunching, and plan for the extra length of any robe or skirt.
How to choose an underlayer without changing the silhouette
Match the underlayer to the shape. A close-fitting camisole often works better under a narrow top than a loose T-shirt. A thin slip generally changes a skirt's volume less than a gathered underskirt. If a garment is already lined, extra coverage may be unnecessary.
Color matters as much as thickness. Hold potential underlayers beneath the outer fabric and look at them in natural light. Also check texture: a rough or decorated undershirt can create visible lines under a smooth top. The most useful layer is one that helps you forget about adjusting your clothes during the event.
Frequently asked questions
Do I have to wear traditional underwear with Hanfu?
No, not for modern personal styling. Historically researched reconstructions may call for period-specific inner garments, but contemporary wearers can select appropriate comfortable underlayers.
Can I wear leggings under Hanfu?
For modern comfort or colder weather, some wearers choose fitted leggings beneath a long skirt. Make sure they do not show unintentionally at the hem, change the skirt's movement or become uncomfortable with the waistband.
What if my white Hanfu looks transparent?
Try a smooth slip or appropriately colored base layer and check the result in daylight. Also review whether the garment was sold with a lining or requires a separate underskirt. If the photo does not clarify, contact the seller before purchase.
Read more Hanfu guides
What is Hanfu? · How to wear Hanfu · Hanfu size guide · What to wear under Hanfu · Hanfu outfit ideas for photography · Song-style layering · The horse-face skirt